Disclaimer

The views expressed here are mine alone, and do not represent the views, policies or intentions of the U.S. Peace Corps, the United States government, or the University of Florida.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Finishing Up The First Three Months At Site...

Friday December 11th, 2009
Some lost, but now found, pictures from the Supervisors Conference in Nampula

"Birds of Paradise only flock twice!" Josh posing on top of our Nampula hotel.


Panoramic view of Nampula City at sunset.

Saturday December 26th, 2009

(Backing up a bit to include a story that I wasn’t able to finish in time for the last batch)

I just got to my site 4 days ago and here I am already leaving town, albeit only for an afternoon. I woke up this morning at 5am, hurriedly put a scrunched-up t-shirt over my head and went out the front door, stumbling as left the house on my way to the machamba (garden). I had only taken a few steps into my machamba before I turned around when realizing that I had forgotten my work gloves back inside the house. While retreating through the front door in full stride, I ducked my head to make it in the severely undersized, 5ft doorway, but miscalculating by an inch or two, I ended up ramming the top of my head into the doorframe’s edge. Alarmed and dazed, I did all I could to keep from yelling out some expletives at the top of my lungs, biting my lip until tasting blood and wailing my closed fists against the house’s inner cement walls (it REALLY hurt!). After a minute or so, which seemed like an hour, the pain began to subside. Before heading back out to work in the machamba, however, I decided to take a seat and rest for a bit. As I sat there in my comfortable living room recliner admiring the growing bump on the top of my head, I was struck with the sudden urge to make a day trip to the neighboring city of Gurue, only 2-3 hours away by car. It would be a nice escape from the recent shock of moving into my community and a late Christmas present of sorts by getting to see all the volunteers who live in and around Gurue, I thought. Now don’t get me wrong, the trip actually had a legitimate purpose and needed to happen soon, either today or tomorrow, because the FGH driver is planning on taking me to buy a bike on Monday and here I was with no money and no bank in town.

Just a few moments later, the decision had been finalized in my head and I found myself back outside my house, in dirty gardening clothes, asking the neighbors how I could go about catching a chapa (my first one in Mozambique alone) to Gurue. The owners of my house were kind enough to not only tell me how to catch the chapa, but went as far as accompanying me to the street and waiting until a chapa passed by to help me signal that I wanted a ride. I got lucky and a chapa passed by after only 10 minutes or so of waiting and, before I knew it, I had boarded the chapa and was barreling through the mountains.

Since my trip to Gurue, I have looked through several travel guides about Mozambique and noticed that in many of them the town of Nauela is, predictably, left out. However, in a few guides it is mentioned as a nice stop along the scenic road between Gurue and Alto Moloque. One guide even went as far to say that the road is perhaps the most beautiful in all of Mozambique. While I still haven’t been to much of Mozambique, after this one trip to Gurue I can’t imagine a road that is much more scenic and/or beautiful. With omnipresent curves that make the Blue Ridge Parkway seem like a straightaway, the dirt road thrusts breathtaking views of distinct looking mountains in your face at every bend, each offering their own unique beauty. That said, while I’m sure that the trip would be nothing but pleasurable for anyone traveling in the comforts of their own private vehicle, in an open-back chapa (a quarter-ton truck that taxis people around) with 30 individuals, baggage, all topped off with a few chickens and/or goats crammed into the truck’s bed, the ride becomes somewhat less appealing!

The chapa that was heading to Gurue had left earlier that day from Nampula (4-5 hours away) and had already been loaded to the brim with people and their belongings by the time it passed through Nauela. Thus, when I finally jumped on, I had few options of where to sit, but managed to find a small space along the truck’s outer edge to plop down. Speeding along on the curvy, uneven mountain roads going between 30-40mph, I spent most of the trip jolting back and forth in fear, teetering on the 2 inch thick truckbed rim between one fate of crashing into the sardine-packed truck center and another of falling out onto the uninviting, rocky pathway racing below. I’ve been told that the drive between Nauela and Gurue normally takes between 2-3 hours, but it took nearly 4 hours today because the driver kept stopping to try to get more passengers on, even when people had already not been able to get on at previous stops. Everyone moaned and groaned when the driver pulled over to try and cram another passenger on, but I stayed quiet, secretly hoping that we could squeeze another person in and which would make it that much more tightly packed, thus making me more secure on my ledge with less risk of falling out. This desire, however, was countered by the fact that the old truckbed’s rims that I was sitting on were being held upright by two metal cords that were joined together in the middle of the truck bed by a ½ inch metal nut. Sitting there and saying a little pray, I thought to myself: “Here I am, after all the things I’ve gone through in my life, and the only thing keeping me from flying off around one of those turns is this feeble piece of metal?! Oh well… Nothing I can do now. Hopefully at least it was made in South Africa!” ;)

Looking around at the Mozambicans I was traveling with, I could tell that I wasn’t the only one a little unnerved by the rough stretches of road and luckily I didn’t have to go it alone during the whole trip. Toughing out the tight mountains curves sitting next to me was a peculiar looking man (not Mozambican) wearing a long, dark black robe and cap traditionally worn by Muslims. After several minutes on the chapa, we got to talking and I found out that he had been traveling for nearly 4 days from his home in northern Tanzania, but, as his final destination was Gurue, his trip was almost done. So even though these were cramped conditions and he was wearing heavy, black clothing in the scorching sun, he was in good spirits. In fact, after chatting sporadically with him for an hour or so, I ventured to inquire about his clothing choice for traveling and he informed me that it was actually well thought out and planned. He went on to explain to me how the long, flowing robe kept the sun off of him while still allowing a cool breeze to penetrate and keep him cool when it was hot and when it was cool it kept him insulated against the cutting wind. Additionally, the black cloth made the dirt that had been accumulating over the past 4 days (he hadn’t changed clothes since he left his home in Tanzania) less apparent and would be easier to clean when finally getting to Gurue. Definitely a seasoned traveler! Feeling the sun beating down on my folded, exposed legs and seeing the dust accumulating on my baize shirt, I was already convinced that my days of traveling in shorts and without sunblock were over.

The afternoon in Gurue was relatively calm and uneventful. I met up with several PCVs, withdrew money at the ATM to buy my bike, bought a few fruits and veggies that you can’t find in Nauela, and jumped on a chapa that got me back home just as the sun was disappearing behind the mountains to the west. The chapa on this leg of the journey actually wasn’t a chapa at all! Instead, it was a large, flat-bed truck loaded down with tons of rice and cement, whose driver was kind enough to let me ride along on top of his cargo. The return trip was really nice because I not only felt comfortable and secure, but, while lying down across the rice sacs, I was able to admire the 360 degree mountain views in the late afternoon sun as the wind blew across my face. Good finish to a long day!

Monday January 11th, 2010
This morning I woke up and ran into Olympio, the 14 year old son of Wiado (the baker who lives next door, pronounced “Why-do”), as I was going through his yard on my way to buy some fresh bread. We greeted each other with the traditional introductions, “Good Morning.”; “Good Morning!”; “How are You?”; “I’m good, but I don’t know how you are?”; “I’m good, Thank you” “Thank you!” (everyone one says they don’t know how you are doing and asks you, even if the person is addressing a line of people and everyone knows darn well how the person is doing!), but wanting to go a little deeper, I started talking about my recent trip to Gurue. In passing, I assumingly asked him if he had ever been to Gurue and quickly he looked down at his feet as he informed me that he actually hadn’t. Swiftly recovering, however, he proudly stated that once he had been to Alto Moloque, but didn’t really like the heavy-traffic, dusty city that much.

The conversation was quite a reality check for me. All this coming from an adolescent who was born and raised on the connecting road between the two large cities, each only a few hours away… I mean, here I am saying that I’m trying to integrate into the community, meanwhile everyone sees me sashaying around the province (Gurue and Quelimane), going to and fro without showing much worry of money and/or purpose. How’s that for integration :-/! In reality, I think the notion that I would flippantly go and spend so little time in Gurue is more jolting to the members of the community than the fact that I came from the other side of the world to volunteer in their village (I’ve shown some neighbors the U.S. on a world map, pointing out the size of Mozambique versus how far away my home is, but I think it’s too abstract for a lot of them to appreciate). Sitting here writing this out, I’ve been trying to juxtapose my experiences with those of my neighbors and realize the implications of my relatively frequent traveling. It was sobering at first, but has become more so after spending time later in the day with his father, Wiado…

As I was saying earlier, I was on my way to Wiado’s house to buy bread when I ran into Olympio and had the aforementioned conversation. Well, after buying several pieces of bread, Wiado invited me to go on a bike ride with him to the neighboring town of Mugema to buy some flour for tomorrow’s bread making. When I was first invited to go on the bike ride I didn’t really find it strange that we were going all the way to Mugema to buy flour, even though it is regularly sold at the Nauela market. No, at that moment I was too overwhelmed with the excitement of just getting out, exploring a little, and buying a few things from a bigger market to really think of much else.

Walking my bike up the first LARGE hill (those of you reading this from Gainesville, think Shands hill, but bigger and longer!), however, I finally began to think about how hard this journey was going to be and, in turn, question the trip’s purpose (I think our minds are trained to think about easier ways out, especially when we are struggling with the task at hand). I began to picture the Nauela marketplace in my mind and could vividly see (or was I imagining it) a large bag a flour sitting next to the young man who is always selling onions. After a few more minutes, I was sure of it. There definitely IS flour at the Nauela market! Yet here we were, going all the way to Mugema (about 5 HILLY miles away) to buy the same stuff. Vexed by all these thoughts, I began to voice my opinions out loud. Wiado laughed for a moment before agreeing with my observations, but then calmly continued on to inform me that he (and most bread makers in Nauela) bikes all the way from Nauela to Mugema to buy a 50lbs sack of flour for 390 metacais (or mets), which is 10 mets cheaper than what they sell it for in Nauela (btw, 30 mets ≈ $1 USD). His simple words crushed me and only continued to weigh heavier upon me as he went on to describe how once he has bought the flour, he then has to strap the 50 lbs sack to his bike and lug it all the way back to Nauela. Even that doesn’t paint the full picture, however, because once he finally has all the ingredients in his home, he then has to wake up at 2am to bake the bread in order to get to the market in time for the morning rush, selling a sack’s worth of bread for a profit of about 300 mets (only $10!).

After getting past all the hills and making it into Mugema’s marketplace, Wiado and I momentarily split up to do our shopping separately. I began searching for a small part for my bike and in no time at all I had found exactly what I was looking for. While handing the change over to the vender (it only cost 2 mets), Wiado came up behind me and held a small valve in his hand, saying that WHEN I COULD GET THE MONEY TOGETHER I should buy this other, more durable upgrade that costs 10 mets (can you imagine that?! The idea of having to really WORK to get 30 cents together). I was speechless, but manage to nod my head acknowledging what he had told me. I walked a few steps away from the booth dazed, but managed to choke out the fact that I was done shopping for the day and we could head home whenever he was ready.

On the way home, we got to talking about home construction in the area and Wiado informed me that a typical 4 meter by 5 meter house requires around 3000 mud blocks, each costing 1 met. It’s not hard math to see that a house costs 3000 mets, or about $100, to build (think about that next time you buy something expensive. How many houses is this worth?!) For me, this really hit home when I started thinking about my guitar, which I just recently bought here in Mozambique for 4000 mets. In short, my guitar is worth more, or at least costs more, than many people’s homes in the community!

It was a rough day, full of realizations that deepened my understanding about the financial struggles of the area. That said, it was a really good day too and I wouldn’t want it to have been any other way. I feel so blessed to have had this realization so soon into my PC experience and so happy that my relationship with Wiado seems to be growing that much stronger.

Tuesday January 19th, 2010
Today my neighborhood had an unexpected visit from an organization based out of Quelimane that led the community members in an informal lesson/discussion about how we can take charge of keeping our water pump functioning and well maintained. Observing from the side, I quickly noticed that the audience was overwhelmingly composed of women, roughly 90% of the crowd was female, and the few males that did attend stayed completely silent throughout. The purpose of this meeting was to educate and I was disappointed that the men of the community were so underrepresented. (This is a stark contrast to the second meeting that happened in early February where some paperwork had to be done and men from all over the neighborhood flocked to see what was going on, while the same women who participated weeks earlier in the discussions sank away).

This brings up the interesting, ever important topic of gender roles here in Alto Zambezia. Even though the local society is matrilineal (family heritage is traced from mother to daughter rather and from father to son), the gender roles are still largely the same as elsewhere around the world where the society is male-centered. During my short period of time in Nauela, I’ve observed that the women in the community tend to have domain over domestic matters, while the men tend to have control over monetary and political matters. Everyone has to work, there’s no opinion to just stay at home, unless you are well off. Instead, mothers have to strap their babies to their backs via a capulana sash and carry them around while they doing their daily tasks.

Friday January 22nd, 2010
I talked to my brother Bryan tonight, telling him about the organization who came and educated the community about maintaining our water pump, and he jumped in saying that an organization visited his church just this previous Sunday asking for donations to build water pumps in Africa. He went on to tell me how he can’t help but wonder how many water pumps, if any, these organizations put in and how much of a difference it makes.

Well in case you’ve ever have doubts, I can tell you this: I am now using one of those water pumps, there are tons scattered throughout the district, and they make a HUGE difference in the lives of the people in the community. Most organizations dig the wells 50-100 meters deep and this practically guarantees that people have a steady supply of clean drinking water, even during the dry season. I can’t help but compare my situation to that of the city of Macuba, Zambezia’s second largest city (I think). After visiting my friend Noemi at her site in Macuba, I consider my community so blessed to not be somewhere where people rely on well water that typically is clouded with mud.

I’ve heard stories from my neighbors saying that everyone in the community used to have to get (muddy) water from the Malapa River, which is about a mile away, and then carry to water back uphill to their houses. Now, the water pump is located right across the street (for me and my neighbors) and really quick at filling up your water containers when compared to a bucket well.

As a capstone to all this talk about water, if you choose to give money to an organization that is going to be installing water pumps around the world, I’d encourage you to research the organization to see what percentage of the donations actually go to the pump construction, how long they’ve been doing it/how many pumps they’ve installed in that time, and what is there plan for pump maintenance.

I want to draw particular attention to that last part because there are SO MANY water pumps out here in Zambezia that break down and communities have to revert back to their old, contaminated water sources because there has been no long-term plan for the maintenance of the pump. In fact, here in Nauela (a relatively urban area compared to other areas with pumps) the plan involves each family who uses the pump to pay 2 mets per month towards (in other locations it is a per usage fee of 1 met per container). Personally, I don’t think that this contribution will be enough for sustainability of our pump (because the pump will almost surely break down in the next year and parts are expensive!), but it’s a start! We’ll see how things go over the next two years. Hopefully I’ll continue to have a good water source. I mean, I complain about no/little electricity and cell phone service, but if the water pump breaks!? I’d really be struggling! In closing, please keep me and our community’s water pump in your prayers!

Saturday January 23rd, 2010
A hike up one of Nauela’s surrounding peaks has been in my mind ever since I arrived at site in late December. Recognizing that I have just completed my first month at site, I figured what better way to celebrate than to get some people together and finally climb one. After asking around to find out who was interested in accompanying me and which mountain we should climb, my friend Wilson, the preventative medicine agent at the local hospital, ended up joining me on an assent up Mount Malapa.

Mount Malapa shares its name with the Malapa River because, near the top of the mountain, a natural spring penetrates the rocky terrain that forms the headwaters of the river. Although the river is quite muddy, community members assured me that the water at the spring is clean and safe to drink (a local mission actually gets its water directly from the spring via a long tube system) and thus the spring would make a nice resting/refreshing point during the day’s hike.

After a late start (Wilson was supposed to come to my house at 7am to borrow the owner of my house’s bike, but it seems that no one here has a watch but me!), Wilson and I hopped on our bikes and made our way to a small community outside of Nauela called Rocha. Writing down that last sentence made it sound so easy that I actually laughed to myself. Trust me though when I say that it wasn’t THAT easy. No, we had to ask directions several times along the way and, because of the mountain terrain and bad road/path conditions, it took a while getting there.

One great thing about December and January in Zambezia is the overwhelming supply of mangos, courtesy of the Portuguese who lined the rural streets with them decades ago. Although they can be annoying if they are dropping out of the trees into your yard and rotting, they are such a nice, juicy, and (best of all) FREE snack. I delve into all this because along the way to the mountain, as we both started to feel the midmorning heat, we decided it best to pull off the path under the shade of a mango tree and help ourselves to some of the ultra-fresh fruit. After 3 or 4 mangos each, Wilson wandered over to a nearby house and asked a gawking woman for water to wash our hands. The woman hesitated, keeping her eyes intently on my, but after Wilson probed her a second time, she kindly obliged (people are SO generous here when you ask them for something. I’m not sure about this, but I think that many people don’t have much to give, so when they are asked to give something they have, they are excited to be able to offer it to someone else… plus it’s part of the culture too).

After squeezing our way through the narrow footpaths of Rocha, Wilson and I finally arrived at the base of the mountain, but had to stash our bikes in an inconspicuous location before starting off on our hike upward. With our bikes safely resting in a hidden trench close to the water’s edge, we began our assent, feeling pretty hardcore as we trudged through the mountain’s fields of sprouting corn and butter beans. I remember thinking to myself, “Man! Now we really are doing some exploring!”

Looking back on it, I know that I should have seen what was coming next… We had almost made it to the top of the mountain, but coming around the trunk of large tree we were greeting with the staring gazes of 20 or so people from the local community who were preparing the side of the mountain to be planted with more beans.

What an ego deflator! Not only did they climb up the mountain as if it were nothing (I’m sure they do it every day) they also got up here with a hoe slung over the shoulder and then began a long day of working in the field! Needless to say, the local farmers were quite surprised to see the two of us, especially some tall, bearded white guy, come meandering up through their recently prepared fields. We explained the purpose of our journey and at first only received blank facial expressions as a response. It’s understandable though because people here in my community (and from what I hear from other volunteers, around Mozambique) don’t tend to explore simply for the joy of exploring. Sensibly they probably see it as a waste of time, effort, and precious fat reserves!

Nevertheless, the people eventually welcomed our presence (for whatever reason we had come) and assured us that they had no problem with us continuing our trek to the top. With their blessing, Wilson and I continued to climb the mountain, albeit a lot slower because, when the fields ended, the mountain was largely overgrown with a type of sawgrass that absolutely destroyed my lower half, leaving slash marks running up to my knees on both of my legs. All complaining aside, the view from the top of the mountain (pictured in my last blog entry) was a generous reward for a morning’s hike. In the end, we even got the sense of accomplishment of really doing some exploring, if only for the last few hundred feet, as we trail blazed a path to the top.

We lingered at the mountain summit for almost an hour, enjoying the view and talking about previous adventures in our lives. As we stared out across the mountainous terrain, we could see typically hidden rain clouds crawling across an adjacent valley in the distance and decided it best to start on our way back home (even though the rain almost always seems to find a way to stay just west of Nauela in the neighboring district of Gurue). We flew down the mountainside, pausing only to say goodbye to the farmers in their bean fields and at the natural spring where we were able to fill up my nalgene bottles with some water (I was a little worried at the time of getting diarrhea or something else from this water, but I was dying of thirst at the time so I figured it would be better to get some temporary ailment rather than have a heat stroke! BTW, I haven’t still been sick since then… knock on wood!).

The trip home took a lot less time than the journey to the mountain because we didn’t have to stop every few minutes to ask for directions, but we did end up delaying a little bit because my bike was literally falling apart. First the my seat loosened and became rather wobbly so I couldn’t really sit anymore, then the left pedal fell off, the brakes stopped reacting well to my frantic tugs on the steep descents, and finally the steering wheel stiffened up and would only let me turn 10 degrees to either side. When I finally made it back to my house, I took a bath and collapsed on my bed. Before passing out for the afternoon, however, I had the frame of mind to examine my bike and noticed , while trying to see if the seat was repairable, that engraved on the seat was the following: “Made in India” and under it in bold lettering were the words “Superior Quality”. I couldn’t help but laugh to myself as a stared at my skeleton of a bike. Never again should those phrases be put together again (and that goes for you too Ronak!).

A few pictures from our hike are pictured below:

Wilson striking a typical Mozambican no-smile picture.


Me taking a break at the top of Mount Malapa to smile for the camera.


The panoramic view (already seen on this blog in an early post) from the top of Mount Malapa.


Wilson with his shirt back on, finally, surrounded by corn as we head back down the mountain.

Saturday February 6th, 2010
This past weekend I made a trip to Quelimane to see some of my fellow PCVs and then a quick stay in Murrumbala to visit my friend Amanda’s site. Although I enjoyed hanging out with other Moz 14ers in “the Q”, my favorite part was definitely hanging around with Amanda at her site. Every day we got out and explored a little bit of the city and its surroundings. One day her neighbor, Lina, even took us out on a short trek to climb a nearby mountain. I’m sure that the three of us must have been quite the spectacle because, as we were walking to the mountain, we managed to pick up a whole gang of local kids who followed us all the way up to the top. Other days were more chill; We cooked a lot of meals, pasear-ed (pasear roughly means to wander about aimlessly) and made it a habit of watching the sunsets on a nice, flat boulder about a quarter mile from her house. On the tail end of my visit, Amanda had to go into the office to work and took the opportunity to introduce me to her fellow colleagues. They were very friendly/nice and her AIR CONDITIONED office seemed like a pretty good set up, but I can tell that our PC experiences are going to be quite different. While Amanda has a job that requires her to be in the office from 7am to 4pm every day, my situation is on the other end of the spectrum, with it being almost entirely void of structure altogether. Maybe it would be nice to be somewhere in the middle… At any rate, we did a lot in only a few days and yet I came away from the trip feeling very well rested. A great trip :-)


Me and the group of locals once we reached the top of the mountain.


Me at top of corn-filled mountain


Amanda and me on top of mountain


Our slightly drunk, impromptu guide up the mountain


Panorama from the top of a mountain about an hour and a half outside Morrumbala City.



After more than a month at site I think my mind began to dull the omnipresent, tremendous beauty as a mechanism to avoid spending all of my time lost, wandering the nearby fields in awe of my surroundings. I slowly grew accustomed to the unsurprisingly beautiful sunsets and attractive scenery. , Being away from site for a few days, however, awakens your sleeping mind and makes you appreciate the area and all its intricacies as if it were the first time visiting all over again. In fact, making the evening trek from Alto Moloque to Nauela hits you in the face with beautiestness (thinking of you dad!) and will knock you down if you aren’t ready for it.

Arriving back at site from an extended trip away in the evening is never a good idea, BTW. There is so much house cleaning to get done, cooking, eating, bathing, not to even mention the “mandatory” chill time, sitting around and catching up with all the neighbors! I’m not kidding, the last task definitely was very time consuming! That said, the warm welcome from the neighbors made me feel so special, missed, and appreciated that it was definitely a positive, even if it did keep up late at night. Coming in on the chapa from Alto Moloque, I felt like I was walking back into Trinity in Gainesville with everyone shouting out, “Welcome Home!” Well, it’s definitely great to be home and it’s a really cool feeling to already have gained that sense of home here in Mozambique!

Check out the photos of my home:

A look at the front of my house with the machamba to the left and the mountains in the back. It was a cloudy day though so they aren’t as clear and beautiful as normal :-)


My living room from the front door. Laura, the previous PCV, left all the furniture for me (so nice!). My bedroom door is immediately on the right, the back right door leads to the yoga room, and the back left door goes in my bathroom.


This is another view of my living room from the back of the house.


My bedroom from the doorway (see my sweet impromptu bamboo clothes rack on the left!)


My bedroom from the window towards the bookshelf/dresser


My Office, Yoga, Guitar, bike storage room.


My bathroom… notice that they were kind enough to install toilet tank even though there’s no running water!?!

Sunday February 7th, 2010
Even after the initial warm welcome, I felt it necessary to try to make amends for my short absence by inviting several of my local counterparts over for a late Sunday lunch/early dinner of, what better than, burritos! I had been looking for an excuse to make them ever since I made them initially for my family in Namaacha, but I needed to plan ahead to gather all the ingredients, have plenty of time in order to make all the components of it, and then it would be a waste if I wasn’t making enough of each part for a whole group of people.

The welcome home burrito fest was complete with tortillas, white rice, refried beans, and loaded guacamole (filled with tomatoes, garlic, onions, and lemon juice). The only things that were really missing were some raw add-ins (tomatoes, onions, etc) and sour cream (which I just learned how I can make here!). Struck with the idea during Sunday morning’s church service, I scrambled around town in the late morning inviting everyone while the beans cooked. I ended up inviting the owners of my house, my neighbor Sisa (1 of only 3 female teachers at the local secondary school), my neighbor Waido, Wilson and Amelia (an FGH social worker) from the hospital, and Macua (the professor who is the leader of the theater group that the last PCV started). Not everyone showed up in a timely manner, but this gave me the opportunity to talk with everyone individually, not only getting to know them all better, but also dropping small bits and pieces of my ideas in their ears about their possible involvement in the community projects. All in all, I think that it was a huge success!

Below are some pictures of me and my neighbors:

Janeiro, the owner of my house, coming back after an afternoon in the fields.


From left to right, Dulce (the daughter of the owner of my house), Vanessa(the niece of the professor who lives behind my house), and Angelica (a close neighbor) hanging out in front of my house.


Me with Dulce, Angelica, and Angelica's sister.

Monday February 8th, 2010
This Friday, professor Macua and I have our first meeting scheduled with the theater group that the previous PCV started. I’ve been at site for a while now and many students already know me by just seeing me around town, but I let Macua know that I wanted to go through the school hierarchy before actually doing any planned activities with its students. Well as it turns out, a perfect opportunity to do just that was today because every Monday and Friday the local secondary school students assemble in roll call lines while the teachers and school administrators make general announcements.

I met Macua and the secondary school director in front of the school to organize our thoughts at 6:30am and at 6:45am we promptly started singing the Mozambican national anthem, followed by some short announcements, and concluding with Macua talking about the theater group and introducing me to the crowd. I smiled from ear to ear as I listened to him speak to the students about the group’s plans this year, mentioning a lot of my ideas as possible activities. He touched on the importance of not just doing theater, but rather incorporating community service projects into the group’s regular schedule by companioning orphans and vulnerable children in community and helping construct latrine for people who can’t build one themselves. It wasn’t just what he said, though. It was how he said it all. He spoke with confidence and seemed so excited to get going. After interacting with a number of people where you felt like you were pulling teeth, his enthusiasm was very refreshing and encouraging!

Tuesday February 9th, 2010
One of the first things I noticed after settling back in here in Nauela was how much my plants had grown in such a short amount of time. In fact, I planted several seeds in a flat a few weeks ago and I can see that I need to transplant most of them in the next week or two to other plant beds where they’ll have room to grow (it was taking a while to dig all of the plant beds so I went ahead and planted 9 different kinds of plants in a seedling flat so I wouldn’t miss out on the window of opportunity to plant when the weather was just right).

The leaf lettuce was by far the most crowded, so Waido and I worked this afternoon to transplant it first. I hope that it adapts well to its new environment. As I’ll be continuing to transplant most of the other seedlings during the next week, this time will be critical for the success of my garden! Check out below how my garden is looking thus far….


The first part of my machamba: pictured is lettuce, peanuts, sweet potato, corn, cucumbers, and two papaya trees


The second part of my machamba: pictured is some more sweet potato, corn, okra, beets, pumpkin, butter beans, tomatoes, and a papaya tree (accidently digitally cut out are the green peppers and eggplant).

Thursday February 11th, 2010
Today I spoke to the community leaders at their monthly meeting about the Newcastle virus that is decimating the chicken population here in Zambezia. I talked a lot about the virus and the available vaccine, but also about the importance of building proper shelter for the chickens and giving them good food. I think that the leaders were pretty impressed with the knowledge I brought forth about the problem… on that note, thank you Bryan and Dad!... we’ll see what ends up happening though!

Random thoughts:
Right now the festival of Carnival is going strong down in Quelimane, but I’m choosing to miss out on it so that I can spend more time at my site. I hear that it’s actually one of the bigger celebrations of Carnival in the world, behind Brazil of course. (I just got word from some PCVs who went down to Quelimane this past weekend for Carnival that they were actually pretty disappointed because it was more of big beer fest than anything cultural… glad I stayed at my site instead!)

Friday February 12th, 2010
Man, why did I stop playing soccer when I got into 4th grade?! I could have been the next Pele! I’m SURE of it. Okay, okay, that’s so not true, it’s not even funny. Regardless, I wish that I had stuck it out for a little bit longer so that I could play soccer better now and not look like a fool!

Ever since school started back up in Nauela, a large group of students have been getting together every afternoon at the field across from my house to play soccer. Despite my deficiencies, I went out to play soccer today and it promptly started raining. “Yes! I’m saved!”, I thought. But the rain wasn’t really coming down that hard and everyone agreed since we were all set up, we might as well tough it out through the afternoon shower. Wet or dry, I can’t really do anything with a soccer ball, so I entertained myself for most of the game by simply running up and down the field simply chasing the ball.

As a matter of fact, when my teammates had the ball, I paid careful attention to be close to the action, but not so close as to encourage them to actually pass it to me (that’s assuming they didn’t already know my complete ineptitude at the sport and were going to pass it to me). When I was playing defense, on the other hand, if you took a quick glance at me, you could have mistaken me for someone who actually knew what he was doing. I kept up with the other players (granted they were having to control a ball while running), but ultimately there was absolutely no way that I could ever get the ball away from them. And even when the ball did squirt lose (due to no result of my actions), I would inevitably haphazardly kick the ball a few feet in front of me, typically to an opposing player!

That all said, it was really fun to play and I plan to do it again in the upcoming weeks. I might even use the informal practices to try and do some health lessons during some breaks. I’ll keep you all updated!

Monday March 1st, 2010

A quick photo of me and my friends hanging out during my current trip to Quelimane:


Me, Amanda, Melissa, and Luke hanging out at a restaurant in Quelimane. This is right after Amanda got some sweet weave-in hair extensions.

Friday, January 29, 2010

Just wanted to upload a picture

Sorry to say there is no new text, just this is a panoramic picture I was able to stitch together during a recent hike I went on. So beautiful. I thought you all might want an idea of the scenery around my site :-)


(Click on it to see larger picture)

Friday, January 22, 2010

Arrived at Site, Passing the Holidays, and Starting on Community Integration

Wednesday December 23, 2009
“Finally we’re leaving for our sites!” I thought to myself as the FGH minibus slowly pulled away from the pensão in Quelimane. We’d been displaced in that shady, nameless bed and breakfast for over a week and a half while waiting for the finishing touches to be completed on our houses and strangely enough it had grown to feel like a home away from home in some ways. That initial moment of excitement when leaving Quelimane slowly melted away during the long, bumpy car ride to northern Zambezia and seemed like a distant memory when we finally pulled into Mugulama in the early afternoon to drop Ethan off at his site.

After stopping by the local hospital, unloading his luggage, and saying a few words to the owner of his house, the FGH workers (basically) abruptly shoved Ethan out the car door on our way out of town. With the doctors chuckling amongst themselves, I looked back at Ethan as the car went sputtering away. For the first time since I’d met him, Ethan, the epitome of a self confident, knowledgeable, worldly young man, looked a little caught off guard, a little unsure of what to do next, and, dare I say, a little vulnerable. As the minibus turned the corner to get back on the highway, I saw Ethan look to his left and right, take a deep breath, and timidly take the first steps of the next two years of his life as a PCV.

Needless to say, the whole scene was quite a bit disconcerting for me. Luckily I had a few more hours before I got to my site to process what had just happened and realize that, even though I wasn’t at my site yet, I was already the only American around.

We had to make a quick stop in Alto Moloque to change cars (the minibus can’t make it on the dirt path to Nauela) which gave me the opportunity to eat lunch and meet up with Rocha, my local counterpart, and Joakim, the Alto Moloque FGH driver, who were accompanying me to Nauela. After some initial resistance, a post-lunch carb crash combined with the mental/emotional exhaustion of the day’s events eventually gave way to a short nap on the way to my site and made the 50km trip from Alto Moloque to Nauela that much quicker. It really seemed to go by in a flash! In fact, the only thing I can remember about the trip is the dirt road lined with Mango trees and sporadic breathtaking views of distant mountains (Julia, a PCV in Gurue, sent me a message when she got to this area about a week ago saying it was God’s country. I was a little skeptical when I got the message, but after only 2 days I’m a believer!).

When we reached my site, I hadn’t even realized we had arrived in a town before we had pulled off the road in front of my house. Indeed, my house is on the very eastern edge of town and Nauela isn’t exactly what you’d call a metropolis, so there aren’t a whole lot of notable buildings in the city. To be fair though, the house is nearly a 1 mile outside the city center where the market is. Even though my house is far from the town’s stores, it is only a stone’s throw from the health post, school, water pump, administration building, and (most importantly!) somewhere I have cell phone service.

FYI, there are two places (that I know of) where you can get cell phone service here in Nauela, 1) a quarter mile down the main throughway, standing on the side of the road or 2) 30 feet up a mango tree in front of my house. I prefer using the tree so far, but that’s just because it sounds so much more hardcore. Either way, when it is raining (we’re just now getting into the rainy season), it will be hard to get out and make phone calls.

When I got out of the car and approached my house, the construction crew was literally just finishing up their work inside the house. My house owner, Janeiro, who had been helping with the work, was sitting on my front veranda as we pulled up and seemed pretty surprised to suddenly see me arrive with little or no warning (communication is very limited in Nauela because almost no one has a cell phone and there are no landlines). Recovering from his initial surprise, Janeiro and I actually hit it off right away as I was very impressed with the condition of the house and he was very proud and eager to show me the fruits of his labor. As it turns out, Janeiro (along with his wife, Verlosa, and youngest daughter, Dulce) lives directly behind me and I have a feeling that we will be very involved in each other’s lives because I know I’ll be spending a lot of time on the back veranda which overlooks his house.

After completing a quick tour of the house, Joakim, Rocha, and I jumped back in the FGH truck to go to the market and buy some provisions to help me make it through the first night at site: some candles, pasta, tomato sauce, potatoes, and onions (you know, the essentials!). When I got back to my house, Dulce was waiting on my front porch offering her services to help me get my water from the neighborhood pump. Even though I initially told her that I could do it myself, when she insisted I didn’t put up too much of a fight. Before I knew it, night had fallen and there I was taking a shower, brushing my teeth, and getting into the bed that will be mine for the next two years. Crazy!

I spent the whole next morning, starting at 5am, just cleaning and organizing things in and around my house. Even though I’m not totally done, I can already tell my set up is going to be awesome! In fact, let me try to give you an idea of what my house looks like… Approaching the house from the outside one of the first things you might notice is that my house is surrounded by flowers that the previous volunteer, Laura, planted (which really brightens things up). To make it even better, the house has both a front and back entrance with covered verandas that give you the opportunity to sit back, relax, and enjoy the cool breeze and mountain views. Inside, the house is basically a large square that is divided up into 4 rooms: a big living room and a small bathroom to the left and a bedroom and a spare room to the right. The previous volunteer left a 3 piece sofa set, coffee table, and cupboard behind which are filling the living area pretty nicely. In my bedroom I have a full-sized bed, a 6 level shelf for books and clothes (that I bought from the local monastery), and an improvised clothes rack that is made from some string and a stick of bamboo. The bathroom has a toilet (YES!), sink, and a partitioned off portion for taking bucket baths (no running water) all of which tie into some sort of waste water plumbing system. Right now the spare room only has a desk and chair in it and I think I’m going to use it as a study/yoga/guitar room. “What about the kitchen?” you might be asking. Well my kitchen is actually on the back veranda which looks out at one of the most spectacular views ever. Definitely a feather in my house’s cap!

During the afternoon, Tefane, the nephew of my house owner (from here on out my new “host family”) walked me over to the center of town and then some to show me around and buy a few things at the market. Even though I won’t be seeing that much of him, he lives in Alto Moloque and is just visiting, it was a really nice gesture by him.

BTW, tonight there is electricity! Not having it, even if just for one night, makes you realize how nice it is to have. One good thing about arriving during the holidays is that the town is letting everyone get some electricity for the next several days as a sort of Christmas present. After just one night I can see how big of a difference electricity makes. Life’s so much easier with even just lights, forget appliances! Never thought I’d be so happy to see light bulbs turn on!


Friday December 25th, 2009
I saw the clouds in the distance this morning while walking home from the Christmas morning church service. It didn’t concern me though until I felt the wind rip through my house and saw a rainy mist slowly creeping across the fertile valley towards Nauela.

Unsure of how long the rains would last, I made a quick dash to the water pump with my bidões, a kind of large water bucket, in tow. Predictably I wasn’t the only one with the idea, as there was already a long queue at the pump when I arrived. I took a breath and tried to make conversation with the neighborhood mothers and children who were also waiting their turns to pump water as I anxiously watched the wall of rain inch closer. Just as it was my turn to fill my bidões, I began to feel the raindrops against my outstretched, pumping hands. The other mothers looked on in amusement at my hurried pumping motions while a few of the older kids jumped in to help me pump faster. By the time I finished filling the two buckets the rain was already rapidly falling in heavy clumps. In a whirlwind of events, before I even knew what had happened really, 2 kids loaded my bidões on their heads and started on their way back to my house. I quickly ran ahead to open the door and turned around to help them get the heavy 20-liter bidões off their heads. They knelt down so I could relieve the weight of the full buckets from their heads and, without saying much else, ran off. I bid them farewell, carried the water inside, shut the door, and, in a flash, was by myself… on a rainy Christmas day… in a dark house with no electricity.

After consoling myself with a few spoonfuls of peanut butter, I began to look around the house for things to do. “I still need to clear out those papers that the previous PCV left…” I reasoned. I began to leaf through the mountain of papers and books she had left behind, and before I knew it I was totally engrossed in them. The previous PCV, known to me until then as simply Mana (sister) Laura, began to take shape before me. Right or wrong, I don’t know, I read through all of her old notebooks, searching for information that might be relevant to my work here. But pretty soon I found myself engrossed in her tiny notes to self, letters from friends back at home, family photos, even going through and noting the well-worn books, all just to give me better insight as to who this mysterious Laura really was.

I don’t know how much time had passed, but suddenly I noticed that the rain had lessened and was soon going to be coming to an end. At the same time, I became aware of the fact that I didn’t feel so alone anymore. In fact, everywhere I looked around the house was the presence of my new “friend” Laura in the things she left behind: the map taped to the front door, the window curtain now hanging in the bathroom, and even the empty nail holes where her wall decorations used to hang. Sitting at the desk she left behind, in the chair she once sat in, I thought of the Streetlight mantra back at home: We get to carry each other. I don’t know if I’ll ever meet Laura face to face, but I feel as if she just spent all Christmas afternoon alongside me with her arm wrapped around my shoulder, sharing her PC experience and letting me know that it would be alright. Indeed, she had already spent two successful years in Nauela… I can do it too!


Wednesday December 30th, 2009

(This journal entry has been transcribed from my writing pad during my trip to Quelimane for New Years)
The paper I’m writing on is spattered with mud. It’s the same burnt orange mud that is caked on my tired, shaky hands. My finger nails are painted with that mud and touched up with the remnants of peeling skin from my sunburned forehead. The words I just wrote are now being attacked by the sweat pouring down from my chin onto the paper below. It’s so hot and it’s only going to get hotter… It’s been a mentally and physically exhausting week to say the least and now it’s being capped off by this long chapa ride to Quelimane for New Years. No wonder they say you age so much here in the PC.

--

Now I’m on a bus headed to Macuba in route to Quelimane. My right leg is being scorched by the rising sun to our left. The bus is hissing like a thousand agitated snakes as we climb up and down the rolling hills of northern Zambezia. Hopefully that’s normal?! My discomforts are mediated by the beautiful views of the flourishing countryside filled with fruit bearing mango trees, acres of corn and cassava plants, and endless acres of lush unattended land, all encompassed by the distant mountains rising up out of nowhere. To give you an idea, these mountains are a nice blend of the subtleness of the Smokies and the grandeur of the Rockies. It’s abrupt and rocky in some spots, but also smooth and rolling with plenty of trees throughout. All things considered, the trip is actually going pretty well. At least I’m not being asked to stand! In fact, they gave me a front row seat it to it all.

--

We just hit the 50 miles stretch of bumpy road between Alto Moloque and Macuba. I hope that I’ll be able to read this later. My pen is leaping back and forth and up and down with abandon. Not for the faint hearted this road…

--

One, two, three… twenty-six people we just passed in the last minute biking down this highway. Here it almost seems normal for bikes to make up the majority of the highway’s traffic. I mean, really, when we pass a car I think to myself “What the heck are you doing here?!”

--

Random thought: getting on public transportation is sort of like a small miracle of interactions that influence one’s life. We make up such a random collection of people, gathered together, participating in the same common goals if only for an hour or two. I mean, who would have thought that some kid born in Gainesville, Florida would have his life affected by a farmer from rural Zambezia?


Sunday January 3rd, 2010
I just got home from my trip to Quelimane for New Years. I’m so exhausted from traveling again, but happy to be home. I’m actually not quite home yet. I’m actually at the hospital in Alto Moloque sitting in an FGH car, waiting for a ride to Nauela. Every few minutes my eyes dart up at the car’s dashboard clock. 7:48am. The day has just begun, but the heat is already pretty overwhelming and everyone is moving around me with a certain sense of urgency, trying to get the morning’s tasks done before the sun’s full force is upon them. Can’t believe how much cooler it is in Nauela, just an hour away! Country roads take me home to the place where I belong :)…


Tuesday January 5th, 2010
Bugs, bugs, bugs! Staring down at the blood smeared across the small writing pad in my fungus infected hands, I am seriously debating whether or not to write this blog entry or not. It’s been a draining day and it seems that, with the setting of the sun, every winged insect, spider, and misc. bug has decided to try and make my comfy, calm living room their home for the night. Meanwhile, here I am battling them back with only my trusty light blue, Short Hand, 70 Sheets strong writing pad, but, needless to say, I’m not doing such a great job. If I take a break from swatting at them, even for a second to sit down and write a sentence, I know that I am doomed to be dive-boomed by the flying termites that buzz around my head a few times before running into my face, falling to my lap, and inevitably getting tangled up in my arm hair. That said, that’s not nearly as disturbing to me as the numerous 4-5 inch spiders scurrying across the floor. Honestly, right now I feel like I’m the little Dutch boy trying to plug the growing number of holes in the dam and there are only so many fingers and toes that I have left to use before the dam breaks and the bugs just flood in. I mean, really, where are all these bugs even coming from?! The one redeeming thing about all of this, however, is that as of yet none of these bugs are mosquitoes or anything that bites. A big plus that definitely makes it more bearable :-)

Sitting down tonight I don’t know what to write! I feel like I did nothing all day today and this is the first time that I’ve felt that way. Let me clarify. It’s not that I did nothing today. It’s just that I didn’t do much outside my house. Looking into the near future I still have plenty of chores around the house to keep me busy from today to the next month, but stepping up and moving my efforts outside my house is another issue all together.

Not to bore you too much, but just to give you an idea of how things went, today I woke up, ate breakfast, heated up water to be able to drink it later, went and pumped water from the well, washed my clothes, scrubbed the back veranda, did yoga, practiced the guitar while cooking lunch, then felt sick and had to take a nap, woke back up, got my clothes off the clothes line, prepared potatoes to be planted in the next few days, got more water from the well, and here I am typing up this blog getting ready to cook some dinner, take a shower and then head to bed. It might sound like a lot, and it was an busy day, but I’m just frustrated that very little of that was outward action. It’s crazy how consuming the simple everyday tasks can be. Maybe I’ll look into getting a maid for a few days a week so I can concentrate on things outside the house on those days. That said, it’s nice that I can afford a maid with the PC monthly salary, but most of the people I’ll be working with can’t afford one and thus their lives will always be consumed by these household tasks. I need to keep this in mind when asking for help and participation in my community activities.

I’ve only been at site for about 1 ½ weeks now and but I’m still a little frustrated that I haven’t gotten involved with anyone in the community or found anyone who might be a regular counterpart for some health projects. Gah! That said, I have gotten pretty close to the owners of my house, my new “host family”, and they are SO great! Both of the parents live and work at home/in the nearby field so they are almost always around. Their youngest daughter, Dulce, is 13 years old and still lives in their house. She always seems very interested in my daily activities and tries to be helpful when she can. She helped me cook today always offers to help me pump and carry water.

I hope that my attitude will continue to be positive and I’ll continue to do good work. Thank you for your prayers.


Thursday, January 7th, 2010
On my way back from Quelimane for New Years my chapa made a long stop at a fruit stand where I got a little carried away and ended up buying 7(!) pineapples and some bananas. It was definitely a good purchase to share with others as a late Christmas present, but definitely way too many for me. Anyways, after 4 days of cramming pineapple down my throat and giving it away just as generously, I was ecstatic yesterday to finally be cutting up the last pineapple for a late afternoon snack. The pineapple had been slightly leaking its juices that morning and by the time I was ready to cut it up, it was covered in small ants. I didn’t pay too much attention to them and just started cutting up the pineapple figuring that as long as they were on the outside, which I would be cutting off, it would be fine. When I made the cuts along the pineapple, however, the ants charged into the pineapple core in a euphoric stampede only to be stopped dead (literally) in their tracks by the overwhelming sugary juices.

How often does this happen to you and me in our everyday lives? I feel like I oftentimes find myself wanting something so bad and devoting so much time trying to get it only to find out that not only did I not really want it, but as it turns out it is actually something very bad for me. Food for thought 

Anyways, today was an awesome day! I did sooo much! I woke up to the sound of someone hammering away at my wall only to realize that the carpenters had returned to put the final grate around my bathroom window. Even though I left for New Years and nothing happened, it still feels so much better to know that I can securely lock up my house and leave with very little to worry about.

Since I was already awake and wouldn’t be able to get back to sleep, heck it was late anyways (5:45am!), I decided to get up and dig some more in my little machamba (garden) outside my house. The clouds kept the weather nice and cool for most of the morning so I ended up working in the garden later than I had originally anticipated. When I was done digging for the day I sat down on my front porch and sipped on a nice cup of water as I admired my work in the garden. It’s so much fun and I think/hope it’s going to turn out well :)

The carpenters finished up with the house by 10am and left a whole big stack of bamboo and tree limbs in my front yard that Janeiro, my house’s owner, is going to make into a fence over the next several days. I’m excited about the fence because it will keep the kids trying to knock down mangos from nearby trees out of my machamba, but I’m also a little worried because I don’t want to appear too cut off from the neighborhood. We’ll see how it works out…

I took a quick bucket bath and was all ready to do some yoga when I heard someone come up to my house asking for “licença” (permission) to speak with me. I wasn’t expecting anyone and didn’t know who it could be. When I answered the door it was a familiar face but I struggled to get the name on the tip of my tongue before the man helped me by chirping in with “Sou Alfonso.” Turns out he was the man I met randomly while walking home a few days ago. At any rate, we started up some small chat about how things were going and the conversation eventually turned to what he was up to at the moment. He informed me that he was going to go pick up his wife and their new baby from his mother-in-laws house and had just stopped by to say hello. As the conversation died out, Alfonso invited me (maybe without thinking that I’d actually take him up on it) to come with him to see his wife and new baby and, without missing a beat, I quickly agreed.

On the walk over to his mother-in-law’s house the conversation mostly centered on his new baby (it was born on December 31st so it was just 1 week old!). As I found out during the walk over, the baby doesn’t even have a name yet and, when he saw that I was intrigued by this, Alfonso promptly offered the baby’s naming rights to me! (Wow! Surprising huh?! Especially since I was trying my best to remember HIS name just moments early when he arrived at my house…) I politely declined his offer, but I was so intrigued by the proposition that for the rest of the day I contemplated what I might actually name a kid if I had to... humm!

The visit wasn’t too long. After only 45 minutes or so my stomach was telling me that it was lunch time and thus I made a quick exit back towards my house. On the way home I ran into Ne Abdul, the local administrator (sort of like the mayor), and ended up having an impromptu meeting with him about working to identify people in the community for me to partner with. The meeting was very positive/upbeat and ended by scheduling another meeting for next Monday with all the community leaders in order to present me to them and get me on my way to meeting those elusive local counterparts.

If the morning sounded busy, the afternoon gave me little time to catch my breath. I ended up running around calling and sending messages to PC staff members back in Maputo and was greeted by a neighbor when I got home inviting me to come over to her house and hang out. I brought my guitar with me and wound up performing a spur-of-the-moment concert for her family and neighbors. They were so grateful for the entertainment that they insisted on me taking a pound or so of beans home with me. I tried my best to politely decline, but I could tell from their insistence that they weren’t going to take “no” for an answer. Instead, I bowed my head, thanked them profusely, and went home with a huge smile on my face.

When I got home from my guitar extravaganza I saw that Wido, my neighbor across the street in front of me, was actually home (for once!) and ran over to speak with him about a few things before he could disappear doing one of his many things he does. Thus far, Wido seems a very interesting community member who’d I’d like to grow close to and work with. To make things convenient, he lives so close to me and our front porches face each other so we are always interacting. But what really makes our relationship appealing to me is the fact that he is seemingly very knowledgeable about agriculture and one of the local bread makers (so I don’t have to go all the way to the market to get my bread!). So he’s definitely someone to stay on his good side. Additionally, he’s also a devout Muslim and someone I’d really like to work with to make ins with the local mosque/Muslim community. At any rate, Wido has a several papaya trees and was very willing to oblige when I started asking him if I could take a few papaya seedlings to use for the edge of my machamba. He even came over and helping me plant them. He’s so nice! In the end, we even ended up talking a little bit about things I could possibly do with people in the mosque and in the community in general...

Such an awesome day! I’m feeling great about things today! I hope always remember this feeling :)

Monday, December 21, 2009

If You Can't Beat 'em, Join 'em!

Monday December 14th, 2009
Saying goodbye to my family in Namaacha was no easy task, but at the same time it wasn’t extremely emotional (i.e. tearing up) either. For one, I didn’t get a whole lot of sleep the night before and, two, I started feeling sick to my stomach while eating breakfast the morning of our departure. Pretty soon after breakfast I was overcome with stomach cramps, diarrhea, and body aches and all of this rendered me relatively mute and introverted for the day.

“Definitely not a good day to travel!” I thought to myself. That said, I knew that I had to suck it up and stick it out for the trip up to Nampula. In between my frequent trips to my host family’s casa de banho that morning, I finished packing my bags and was thrilled to find out that my host family was offering to take me in their car to the send off. We arrived at the market and before I knew it, the chapas were sputtering off as I waved goodbye to all the host families from the barrio (my friends’ host families as well as my own) that I’d grown so close to over the past 10 weeks. It was a sad moment for sure, and one that I won’t soon forget, but my mind was elsewhere, swirling with jolts of pain and discomfort. Only seconds after leaving Namaacha I collapsed, completely exhausted, in the front seat of the chapa with my head awkwardly slumped over as I slept. A great beginning to the next two years of my life, right?!

Thinking back, the chapa ride from Namaacha to the Maputo airport is a blur. I was constantly coming in and out of consciousness and when we finally made it to the airport I don’t think I even entirely understood what was going on. Waiting in the crammed, non-air conditioned departure gate of the airport with 30+ PCVs to check in was tortuous to say the least. I took several trips to the bathroom and several more to a nearby bench to sit down and pass out, even if just for a few moments. The flight from Maputo to Nampula should have been about 3 hours, but it had an hour-long layover in Beira which seemed to last infinitely longer than scheduled. Luckily, the flight attendant took pity on me and didn’t make me leave the plane like everyone else during the layover. When we got finally arrived in Nampula, the PC driver wanted to take me to the hospital, but I insisted on just going to the hotel and resting. We had already taken my temperature and I knew that there probably wasn’t anything more that the hospital medical staff could have done for me because it was only a low grade fever (our PC medical officer should be so proud of me!). After rushing in the hotel and stumbling up to my room, the next thing I remember is waking up the following morning with my fever having broken and feeling a lot better, but still pretty weak.

I spent the morning chilling in my hotel room splitting time between the Arabic news channels (there is a heavy Arabic influence in the northern part of Mozambique) and infomercials on the one English-speaking, South African channel. When I had finally grown tired of the television and became conscious of the fact that I was missing the Supervisors Conference, I managed to take a quick shower, dress myself, and make it down to interact with my organization’s counterparts for a few hours before having to retreat to my room for the afternoon to rest up. Even though I missed out on several hours of the conference, my presence wasn’t terribly missed because the organization I’m partnered with has 4 other new PCVs working with them this year (Ethan, Josh, Katie, and Melissa) and a history with working with PCVs. Therefore, even though I wasn’t physically there, I think that my interests were represented through my fellow PCVs.

The next morning, Friday, the whole army of FGH, ICAP, and Save The Children PCVs headed down to Quelimane, where our NGOs’ main offices are, from Nampula. Even though we left early and didn’t stop that often, the trip still took all day. Part of the reason it took so long is that during a 50 mile stretch between Alto Moloque and Mocuba the road is in really bad shape which not only forced us to slow down to a crawl, but also caused us to pop a tire. Consequently, we spent 30 minutes or so on the side of road having to change the tire, but it gave us a chance to get out and stretch our legs and for that we were all grateful. During the trip we passed by Alto Moloque (my district capital) and my counterpart pointed off in the distance when we passed a side road to indicate where Nauela is (what a tease!). I’m not sure exactly when I’ll be making it back up there because my supervisor, Chire, tells me that they are currently building an indoor bathroom onto my house (it was an outside latrine for the last PCV) and it’s not quite ready yet. Patience is the name of the game…

Friday December 18th, 2009
We’ve been in Quelimane for a week now and I’m still not sure when I’ll finally be going to my site. Melissa, Josh, and Katie left for their sites yesterday, but Ethan and I stayed behind because our sites’ still aren’t quite ready yet. Both the previous PCVs who we are replacing had to use outdoor latrines as bathrooms and FGH decided that they would construct indoor bathrooms for Ethan and I because it was a point of much contention.

We’ve spent a lot of time this week at the FGH office meeting people in the organization and just getting acclimated to the new hierarchy of things. We met with Teresa (the director of FGH in Mozambique), Ruth (the director of the community outreach program for FGH Mozambique), Chire (our direct supervisor), as well as the representatives of other local organizations that we might be working with. In fact, we were also supposed to meet with governor of province, but the scheduling didn’t work out so we’ll have to wait on that one till another day.

A lot of the meetings were slow to start and not terribly interesting, but one moment from the week stands out in my mind above the rest. As our meeting with Ruth came to an end and she was getting her things ready to catch her flight back to Maputo, she decided to tell us a story about her previous experience with PC from her childhood and it goes a little like this:

When I was a child growing up in Swaziland, I frequently saw Peace Corps volunteers in their long, flowing dresses and their huge packs loaded down with seemingly all their worldly possessions. It was a peculiar site to say the least. Moreover, instead of using their own private vehicles to get from place to place, like all the other white people we would see, they were always walking and/or using public transportation. In fact, in all our interactions with them, my friends and I didn’t know much about these foreigners except for the fact that they referred to themselves as “volunteers.” At the time, my friends and I didn’t really understand the concept of a volunteer and it wasn’t until secondary school that we finally grasped their role and purpose for being in our country. In reality, up until that time my friends and I genuinely believed that these strange foreigners were simply a poorer tribe of nomadic white people wandering around Swaziland. –Oh Peace Corps :P

Sunday December 20th, 2009
So after more than a week of waiting in Quelimane for my home in Nauela to be ready, the take home lesson is: if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em!

The ongoing joke between Ethan and I has been that Quelimane is quickly seeming more and more like our actual site and we wonder if FGH will ever actually send us out to our supposed destinations. With that in mind, and spurred on by the fact that nearly all of shops shut down on Sunday, Ethan and I made the decision this morning that it was fine time to stop aimlessly wandering around, buying supplies for our sites and start our entry and integration in the local community... of Quelimane.

Ethan and I started out by doing some of the basic tasks that any other Quelimanian might do on a Sunday morning. First, we took a bike taxi to the local market and haggled with the vendors over the price of the local commodity: the illustrious pineapple. Now, a freshly picked pineapple in the States might cost you several dollars, if available at all, but here in Mozambique you can carry a nice plump one home for only 20 metacais (~70 cents!) after some skilled haggling. Ethan wasn’t feeling so well so he ended up heading back to the hotel earlier than I did, but that worked out well for me because on my way home from the market I was flagged down by a neighbor who lives a few houses down from the pensão we’re staying in and ended up having a 30 minute conversation and exchanging numbers. Even though he knows I’ll be leaving the city soon, he said I can send him a message whenever I come back in town and want to hang out.

No community entry/integration would be complete without participating in some of the less appealing daily tasks (i.e. the household chores). For me, today that manifested itself in an hour of washing clothes in the grueling midday heat. I got a late start on washing the clothes because of our trip to the market, which might have been a problem in Namaacha if I wanted my pants to dry out completely, but not here in Quelimane! It was so hot today (over 41 degrees Celsius) that the clothes all dried out in less than half a day with sunlight to spare! Ooh the things that are impressive to a PCV…

After lunch at a local chicken shack, Ethan and I heard some cheers from a local gym while wandering around and decided to sit down and watch a volleyball game that turned out to be the championship of a small, local tournament. The game was very close and, luckily, the fan favorite won in dramatic fashion, with several people in addition to the team storming the court and dancing, so (almost) everyone went home feeling energized and pretty good about the outcome. Walking out of the gymnasium I thought and laughed to myself “How’s that for community integration!”

All joking aside about our drawn out stay in Quelimane, I can’t wait to get to site. On the other hand, I’m definitely getting a little nervous about it. In fact, I just got down listening to the Beetles song “Elanor Rigby” and the repeated line “Aaah, look at all the lonely people!” immediately threw my mind back into all the conversations I’ve been having with other new PCVs who have already been delivered to their sites. Over and over I’ve heard stories of how they’ve been struggling dealing with the persistent feeling of loneliness. For some new PCVs the experience has been even worse. I just got word from one of my close friends from training who had her house broken into and got a lot of her electronics stolen (which are not easily replaceable here in Mozambique). I think that everyone is handling the transition differently and some people are dealing with it better than others. I’ve heard whispers about new volunteers who are thinking about ETing (early terminating their service), but I don’t know how strong these feelings are. Regardless, us PCVs need to continue to reach out to each other and we need the support from those of you back at home. So if you are reading this blog and you have a friend or family member over here… call them and show them that you love them and support them!

Sorry I don’t have any pictures this time, I’ll update you all soon enough with some from my site.

One Love,
Michael

Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Reflecting on Mozambique, Saying Goodbye to Namaacha, and Swearing-in

Sunday November 29th, 2009
“Tchau! Ate logo!” I hollered back to my host family as I stepped out of the house and hurriedly started toward the street. I was on my way to meet up with some PC friends to watch a movie at Amanda’s house and was trying to slyly escape because I didn’t want to be later than I already was. I had been messing around, killing time around my host family’s house for almost an hour waiting for dinner to be served and, now that I had finally eaten, the last thing I wanted to do was waste any more time with long goodbyes.

Just as the loud crash of my house’s metal gate rang out behind me, I felt a slight twitch in my front pocket letting me know that I had received a text on my cell phone. I wasn’t too eager to check it, thinking that it might be a request from my host mom to come back and check in with her, but I made a quick glance at it in stride and realized that the text was actually from Alycia, another PC friend of mine. In the short message she innocently invited me to drop by her host family’s party to eat some cake and, even though I was already running late, I figured that her house was on the way. Moreover, I thought “Really, how long would it take me to eat a piece of cake?” (For those of you who know my eating habits, you know what I mean!).

Walking up to Alycia’s house, I was invited inside by her host sisters and quickly realized upon entering that this was not going to be any quick grab-cake-and-go experience. For one, her host mom was still setting the table when I arrived, while the whole extended family was sitting around the room watching in anticipation. To further highlight the importance of the event, there was even a local photographer present to help capture the evening’s activities. “Ugh! This isn’t what I signed up for…” I thought to myself. It’s funny how host families’ parties have become such a burden here in Namaacha, especially as our time here has started to come to an end. It seems that every other night there is a birthday, anniversary, or going away party that some volunteer and their host families are insisting you come to. It’s an honor for sure, but it’s still something keeping you and your friends from just relaxing and chilling together.

While thinking about trying to get to the movie with my other friends, I noticed that only two other volunteers were at the party and knew that I wasn’t going to be able to make a quick run for it and my absence not be felt. Sitting down next to Alycia’s host father, I decided to make the best of it and just go with the flow. After starting some small talk with the other party guests, I flipped out my cell phone and sent a resigned message to Amanda, “be there later. don’t wait to start movie for me. :(”

With music playing in the background and food aplenty set before us, the mood of my conversation remained somber as Alycia’s host father and his friend explained to me about their experiences in Mozambique’s armed forces. Even though they served in the military after the country’s civil war, it was still two long, rough years of their lives where they were uprooted from their homes and forced to train and stay on active duty several hours away from their friends and family. This is not a unique experience: two years of military service is mandatory for all Mozambican men.

Relating this to the issues that public health officials regularly confront in Mozambique, you begin to wonder how this military indoctrination at a crucial developmental stage in a man’s life affects the general Mozambican masculine state of mind in the areas of sexuality and the treatment of women. Although I’m sure there are some soldiers who continue to remain abstinent or faithful to one partner, I’m confident that sexual promiscuity is prevalent and widely accepted among the displaced population of young soldiers. Adding to the dangerous mix, almost the entire population of males in Mozambique has been trained to be “war ready” and I believe that you can sense that callused, detached mindset when trying to discuss the topics of mortality and the value of life in relation to public health issues, such as HIV/AIDS, with middle-age Mozambican males.

As I understood it, for as long as Mozambique has been a country, since 1975, all men have been required to complete at least two years military service. Back in the day this draft made sense while trying to combat any unrest following the independence of the country and the ensuing civil war. Now, however, Mozambique is decades removed from war and yet there exists a sense among Mozambicans that a military draft is still necessary.

Naively asking Alycia’s family who they thought Mozambique could/would be attacked by, one older woman earnestly blurted out “RENAMO!”, the current minority political party in the country and the former combatant during the country’s civil war. Thinking to myself about the implications of this outburst, I began to project the situation on the current U.S. political climate. It’s hard for me to imagine the feeling that would exist in America if people were scared that the Republicans or Democrats were going to try to violently overthrow the administration if they lost the elections. This, however, is a reality in Mozambique. In fact, just the past month, the leader of RENAMO made a televised announcement urging the people of Mozambique to rebel against the government following the lopsided national elections that were widely thought to be fraudulent. Luckily, these pleads weren’t heeded by the country’s population and things were able to continue on without incident. Regardless, being in a country where the tension between the opposing political parties is so high makes you notice how devastating the effects of a civil war could be. Neighbors who help one another, schools and hospitals that serve the needy, businesses that provide essential daily items for the population are all put at risk of collapsing during a civil war. Here we are some many years removed from the country’s civil war and things still feel so sensitive.

After taking all this in, I started to feel the effects of the recent flu-like illness I was still recovering from and ended up calling it a night soon after. I said my thanks to all the party guests, excused myself, and walked out the door, going home with a sense of uncertainty and more questions than answers about what my role here in Mozambique will end up being.

Wednesday December 2nd, 2009
With my head still trying to grasp the ramifications of the conversation at Alycia’s party, the PCTs were lucky enough to receive a visit today from the U.S. Charge D’affairs (Mozambique doesn’t currently have an ambassador) to put the current social, economic, and political climate here in Mozambique in perspective according to his experiences and beliefs (noticeably very politically charged and thus very different from the approach a PCV might take).

The Charge D’affairs, Todd Chapman, was introduced to the room of PCTs by our country director and at first glance came off looking rather stuck up and goofy with his distinctly-parted, meticulously-groomed hair cut. After only a few moments in front of the crowd of PCTs, however, my initial impression was surprising reversed by his frank and honest recollection about his experiences in country.

The take home message of the Charge D’affairs’ short presentation could be summed up as such: when trying to assess the current state of Mozambique, remember where it came from. Mr. Chapman first arrived in Mozambique in 1993, right after the end of the civil war between FRELIMO and RENAMO, and he couldn’t emphasize enough how far the country has come in the past 16 years. In the early 90’s, Mozambique was the poorest country in the world, based on per capita income, with around 80% of the population living in absolute poverty. Since then, there has been a 30% reduction in the percentage of people living in absolute poverty and the per capita income has quadrupled. That said, because it was so low to start with, Mozambique still remains among the 10 poorest countries in the world. After nearly 2 decades of aid, signs of sustainable improvements are suspect at best. In fact, Mozambique is considered one of the 10 most aid-dependent countries in the world. Perhaps best exemplifying this is the fact that, as I mentioned in a previous blog, over 70% of health care system is paid for by outside sources.

When looking at Mozambique’s shortcomings today, it’s hard to imagine how much worse the state of the country was less than two decades ago following the war for independence and the ensuing civil war. The country’s infrastructure (roads, schools, hospitals, electricity, etc.) had been completely decimated by the fighting. For example, the road from Maputo to Namaacha, which now takes an hour or so to travel, took more than 3+ hours to travel in 1993 due to the unbroken stretch of pot holes lining the road’s length. If that isn’t enough to give a picture of how bad it was in the country, think about how nearly 80% of all hospitals and schools were destroyed in combat. (PC education volunteers recently informed us how it’s not unusual for middle-aged men and women to go to night school now to try and regain the education they missed out on during/after the wars. In fact, the situation is so desperate that people even go to night school in places where there is no electricity and must learn by candlelight. Also keep in mind that these are individuals who are often up at 5am and work till their night school shift from 5-10pm, after which they have to go home, take care of household chores, and do it all over again the next day.)

To make matters more complicated, when peace keepers arrived in Mozambique shortly after the end of the civil war and started trying to demilitarize camps from both sides, they quickly realized that there was a whole generation of boy soldiers who didn’t have anyone or anything to go back to. These young men were raised to be soldiers and didn’t even know where they were from, much less who their family was. For those who were able to transition out of the military lifestyle, the early 90’s was a time where people remained inactive because scattered throughout the country were thousands of unmarked, unaccounted for landmines which made it quite treacherous for people to get out and start rebuilding the country.

Although many would argue that the climb up from this low point has been slow and corrupt, I’m torn when trying to assess whether international aid has been helping or hurting Mozambique. In the eyes of the U.S. Charge D’affairs, I’m sure that the aid has made a tremendously beneficial impact. But, the question of Why should the U.S. continue to give aid to Mozambique? is becoming harder answer in light of the global economic crisis and the fact that some people would argue that there are many indications that the aid is actually hurting the country’s movement towards democracy and economic success (the Charge D’affairs gave the example of the recent elections where there were reported incidents of ballot stuffing and an effort to exclude an up and coming third party from many of the country’s voting regions)

Regardless of international aid, the Mr. Chapman, educated with a strong background in economics, took the opportunity to answer the question of what he thinks Mozambique could do economically to improve its current state of affairs. He emphasized that Mozambique should expand its ability to capitalize on its natural resources (i.e agriculture and mineral wealth) and decrease its emphasis on expanding industry (he feels that Mozambique would really struggle to have a large industry presence because it would have trouble competing with neighboring South Africa and international giant China). Instead, the country should continue to build up infrastructure (i.e. reliable electricity, schools, hospitals, roads, etc) to attract more tourism and small businesses, while also building the country’s human capacity by getting more people who are working in Mozambique trained and educated.

All of these reflections (although some were politically charged and contrary to what PC is all about) have given me a slightly different perspective heading into my upcoming service and I trust that it has taught you back at home some new things too. I hope it will give me more patience with myself and my work (I know now it will be a long, slow process) and that it will inspire you to continue to do some of your own research on the subject back at home. As I move forward, please remind me of this blog when I seem down about lack of “forward progress” because no matter how slow things seem to be moving, I have to remember that Mozambique has come a long way.

Friday December 4th, 2009
I was sitting in my room on Thursday evening, trying to buckle down and put a capstone on the journal write-ups from the past few days, when my friend Kat came over and playfully convinced me to come out of my self-inflicted isolation and goof off with her and some of the neighborhood kids for a bit. A few minutes later, there we were in her front yard singing and dancing along to the blaring tune of Beyonce’s “If you liked it then you should’ve put a ring on it” (I don’t know if that’s the real name of it or not, but you know what I’m talking about) coming from the nearby barraca (a place where they sell alcohol) surrounded by 20 kids from the neighboring houses. At the end of the song, Kat and I collapsed into each other’s arms, out of breath and sweating, but smiling from ear to ear. It was a short-lived moment in comparison to other events during my experience here in Namaacha, but definitely one of the last one’s that I’d ever forget.

Unfortunately, this wasn’t an isolated incident of forgetting to be focused on the people I’m actually here to serve. I am constantly trying to remind myself to recognize how it’s not annoying, rather great that my host family brother and sisters are practically kicking in my door to play with me and how special it is that everyone I walk by in the neighborhood screams “mano Michael” (they pronounce it Me-Shy-El) to greet me. Nevertheless, I’m trying and I’m having fun doing itJ

One “business issue” we had going on today was our LPI (an oral exam PC uses to measure your grasp of a language) that everyone needed to earn at least an intermediate score on to be sworn in as a PCV next week. The great news is that everyone passed! In fact, I actually scored on the high end of the spectrum, qualifying as being “advanced” in speaking Portuguese. It makes me feel good, but I’m also very aware that there is a huge amount of learning still left to be done.

After the LPI, we were rewarded with some of the few precious moments of free time during PST and a group of 5 of us decided to spend it sleeping/resting under a mango tree at Roselia’s house. That may not sound that exciting to you back at home, but trust me, it was to us! Walking around Namaacha in the hot, relentless sun really made us appreciate the cool, swooping breeze that practically begged you to pull up a mat and lay down under the Mango tree’s shade. It felt like we were in some small, little oasis, picking and eating Litchis (a fruit) from a nearby tree, staring up at the swirling clouds above, and talking about our upcoming site placements. We can’t wait J

Sunday December 6th, 2009
By the time I rambled out of bed at 4:30am on Saturday morning to walk over to Noemi’s house for Yoga, my host mom was already dressed and heading out the door on her way to the local school to start preparing food for our end-of-training party later that day. The party was supposed to be providing food for all 67 volunteers and their families, so it definitely was no easy feat, not even for a group of hardworking Mozambican women. In fact, the food preparation was underway days before when they host mom’s had gotten together to kill and prepare 70 chickens and send 1 cow to the butcher.

The party started at 10am with speeches from several community members recognizing the efforts of the host families, the PCTs, and the community’s efforts as a whole in this year’s successful training (like I said, everyone passed their LPIs, so everyone will be able to swear in as PCVs on Tuesday). Afterward, the host families and PCTs were called up in front of the crowd to receive certificates recognizing the efforts of the families (a spectacle filled with loud hoots and hollers, singing, and even some dancing). When it came time for my family to be recognized, my host Mom and made our way up to the front doing an impromptu dance which elicited a loud roar from the audience before we retreated to our seats.

When it finally came time to eat, there was TONS of food, but it still wasn’t enough for everyone. Things like chicken and beef ran out early and a lot of the last people to be served were left with just rice and potatoes. People slowly began leaving the party as they finished up their food, but those who decided to stick around were rewarded with a fun dance party afterward. Probably the biggest highlight of the dance party was one song that all the health PCTs knew a dance to because we had to perform it earlier in PST. Even though it got a little old after a while, that didn’t stop us from playing the song 4 times before the hour long dance party was over!

I woke up today hoping I’d make a quick trip to Maputo to buy a few small things for my site, but my host mom was insistent that I stay in Namaacha in order to go to church and say goodbye to the congregation. She was right. I had been going to the church ever since I had arrived here in Namaacha, only missing a few Sundays here and there, and a lot of people had grown accustomed to seeing me around. It was only right to bite the bullet and say my goodbyes to them. That said, after having sat through the 4 hour long church service (!), I felt like maybe I could have just sent my host mom with a message from me and it would have had the same effect…

Nearly reaching the end of the service, I had almost escaped without making any dramatic speech when my mom signaled to me that if I wasn’t going to let the usher know that I needed to say a few words to the congregation, then she would. I conceded and got the attention of the usher, but had to sit and wait several minutes before the time was right. Even though I had just completed an oral exam with PC, the anxiousness that I felt in those few moments before speaking to the congregation was infinitely more nerve wrecking. When the time finally arrived and I was signaled to speak, I stood up and, with only a little awkwardness, informed the church that I’d soon be leaving, let them know where I’d be going and for how long, and closed by asking for prayers for my travels. All in all, I think the speech was well received and several people even came up to me after the service to personally wish me well on my journey. To say the least, it was a great feeling J

Tuesday, December 8th, 2009
All 67 PCT’s loaded up in PC vehicles and chapas this morning and headed into Maputo for our long-awaited swearing-in ceremony (during the 10 weeks of PST we aren’t actually considered PC volunteers, just PC trainees). Of course nothing can be as easy as simply heading into town here with PC. Somehow I managed to jump on the chapa that overheated 3 times, got royally lost, and completely died when finally rolling up to the front of the U.S. Charge D’affairs’ house, where we were having the swearing in ceremony.

The ceremony included a lot of speeches from PC staff members, U.S./Mozambican government officials, and even some PCT’s. Although the speeches all touched on slightly different topics, the overarching theme of all of them was highlighting the possibilities that lie ahead of us as PCVs and encouraging us to keep up the good work. The actual process of swearing-in came and went before we even knew what happened, but it was a pretty rewarding feeling afterwards to look around finally be able to call one another PCVs!

Afterwards, me and the 4 other new PCVs who will be working with Friends in Global Health got to meet with a few representatives from the NGO and talk about some of the details regarding the next several days. As it turns out, all the PCVs who are going to the Northern region of Mozambique will be flying to Nampula on Wednesday evening for the PC Supervisors Conference the following day. The conference will last for a day and provide all the volunteers an opportunity to talk with their supervisors/community contacts about expectations, job roles/responsibilities, and short term plans working towards community integration. On Friday most volunteers are heading out to their sites, but all the FGH and ICAP PCVs will instead be driving down to the Zambezia provincial capital city of Quelimane (where I went for my site visit) and meeting with NGO staff members for a few days before heading to our sites on Tuesday or Wednesday.

When I finally get to Nauela, my site, I don’t expect to have electricity, much less internet. Therefore, please bear with me as I try to keep you guys back at home as updated as possible on my comings and goings. I’ll do my best.

I’m soooo excited for site placement! Talk to you later.

One Love,
Michael
Check out the pictures below:


A group of most of my close Health PCV friends at the party recognizing our host families. From left to right: Emily, Josh, Michael, Yokho, Noemi (top), Roselia (bottom), and Amanda.


My host mom and I celebrating her receiving her certificate.


The whole Moz 14 Health group with our trainer Caroline to the far right.


The whole Moz 14 group at the host family party.


Some of the host moms getting ready to serve the food for the party. My host mom is in the middle wearing the blue apron.


Yohko eating and drinking it up!


Donna and Luis Luis (one of the cute, newly formed Moz 14 couples) enjoying the party.


Me dancing at the party after eating lunch!

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Great Thanksgiving... Minus Getting Sick

Wednesday November 25th, 2009
I know that I already mentioned some details about my Thanksgiving here in Mozambique (i.e. – my site placement), but I want to back up and let you all know what we, the PCTs, did to celebrate the occasion since it is not, for obvious reasons, a recognized holiday here. And to head off any confusion, the date listed above was no mistake. We actually celebrated Thanksgiving on Wednesday due to some PC administrative reasons.

The day started off as any other “hub day” would, with all 67 PCTs (we lost another Health PCT the other day) cramming under the open-air tiki hut outside Casa Grande and sitting through a few sessions about Health and Safety & Security. After a few hours of sessions, we were supposed to be released to play football before an early afternoon Thanksgiving day meal, during which we’d supposedly find out our site placements. We started the first session late and by the start of the second we all knew that changes would have to be made. After sitting and watching the morning’s time fly by, Rueben, the PC Moz Country Director, abruptly announced to the anxious group of football-ready PCTs that the people with our site placements were almost here and that they’d be extending the morning session a little further to allow them to arrive and let us know our site placements before our interval. Upon their arrival they built up the suspense a little, gave each one of us a sealed envelope with our name on it, and when everyone had finally received their envelope let us all rip them open to discover the piece of paper that told us where we would be living for the next two years.


Kristie, the Health Assistant Peace Corps Director (APCD) for Mozambique, and some other PC staff members getting ready to start handing out our site placements

The room was filled with joy and sorrow at the same time. Strong friendships that had formed over the past 8 weeks were geographically torn apart in a flash, while others were bound that more tightly. For me, there is no one who was placed around me that I wish wasn’t, but at the same time there are a lot of people that are being placed in the southern part of Mozambique that I will miss: Matt, Jenna, Donna, Louise to name a few. In reality I don’t know how often I’ll even be seeing the people in my own province and maybe that’s for the best because it’ll make me rely more heavily on the relationships within my community. Regardless of the other PCVs that at nearby my site though, I really like how my site sounds on paper and can’t wait to get there. To finish up the site placement session, we all gathered at the front of the room and placed small sticky tabs with our names on them in the corresponding spots on the map where we were each going to be placed. See the map covered with sticky tabs, it was a comforting feeling visualizing that almost anywhere we go in Mozambique there’ll be a volunteer not too far away. I’ll have to keep that in mind when, down the road, I get a feeling like I’m all alone in this country.

A quick look at all the PC Moz 14 volunteers (maybe a few are missing?) and their site placements.

As you can imagine, all of this significantly ate into our interval where we were supposed to be celebrating Thanksgiving by playing possibly the first game of (American) football that Namaacha had ever seen. Faced with this time obstacle, we decided to delay the game to the next day, a decision that would later have a significant impact on my health and wellbeing, and instead just have everyone run home and fetch/prepare their food for the Thanksgiving Day meal.

That said, we actually had to plan the meal several weeks in advance because so many of the foods that we take for granted as being easily accessible in the US are not widely available here in Mozambique. The PC staff agreed to provide the meat (beef and turkey), drinks, and utensils as long as the PCTs provided the sides and desserts. After much thought and a little deliberation we decided to split up and prepare mashed potatoes and gravy, mac and cheese, green beans, stuffing, beets, corn, rice, steamed squash, pumpkin pie, flan, cookies, cakes, brownies, and a bunch of other stuff that I can’t even remember right now. Needless to say, the potluck Thanksgiving day meal was awesome!

Thursday November 26th, 2009
Let me qualify the last statement of Wednesday’s blog post by saying that, at the time, the Thanksgiving day meal was awesome!... A day removed from it, however, I started having muscle pains and headaches that came and went throughout the day(I’m not sure if these were directly related to the food consumption or not, but several others people had similar complaints). When the afternoon rolled around and push came to shove, I had made up my mind that I wasn’t going to let those minor road blocks keep from me from playing some good ol’ fashion Thanksgiving Day pigskin. Bring it on ;-) And, you know what?, upon arriving at the field and seeing people tossing around a football, the rushing adrenaline quickly made my minor aches and pains fade away. I played alright, but my team, mostly composed of Health PCTs, valiantly fell to our rivals, a team mostly composed of Education PCTs, 10-7 in a two-hand tag game filled with plenty of “accidental” tackling (mostly by the PCT girls!). Limping home from the game, the adrenaline slowly began to leave my system and I began to realize that I definitely should not have played. I hadn’t even made it back to my host family’s house before the headache returned with a vengeance and by the time I had been home for an hour my bowels had required four separate trips to the casa de banho. L

At the end of the day, a redeeming factor to it all was receiving calls from my family back in the States right before I was about to pass out on my bed and then, the next morning, from Ricky and Chris. Thank you all so much for your support! I’m sorry I was sick at the time we talked, but I just want to let you know that, even though I probably didn’t sound like it on the phone, it was great to hear from you! J

Friday November 27th, 2009
Today should have been a day of rest. Emphasis on the words “should have”. Instead, I had to do my long-anticipated practicum with Noemi, a fellow PCT, as a sort of capstone to the whole PC training process. I woke up feeling pretty bad, but after resting up, taking some medicine, and talking to Ricky and Chris on the phone, I was able to make it out of bed, put on my best smile, and just fake it. Our practicum was geared towards people who prepare the food for their household, mostly older women, but actually drew a nice array of people including one young man and several teenage girls. During the discussion portion of our presentation, the exchange of knowledge between the older and younger generations was actually pretty encouraging, showing us that the people who came were really getting into it (a lot of the people who come to these practicum presentations are PCT host family members and are just there to be bodies in the audience). Even though there were a few mistakes here and there, I think that both Noemi and I walked away from the presentation feeling pretty good about things, especially considering the circumstances of me being sick and all.

I said goodbye to Noemi shortly after the end of the presentation and spent the rest of the day lying balled-up on my bed, decked out in winter clothes while trying to combat the chilly feeling encompassing my entire body. Near the end of the day I asked my PCT friend Roselia, who I’ve been doing Yoga with in the mornings, to come over and meditate with me to “speak with the illness”(she had suggested this for another friend ours who was previously sick). Now, after heavily studying evidence-based curriculum in areas like biochemistry and microbiology throughout high school and college, I don’t know how much of this is legit or not, but I really did start to feel immediately better while meditating and, the kicker is that, about a hour or so after we stopped meditating my fever broke and I’ve been feeling great ever since. Who would have figured?! I’m not totally convinced it wasn’t just a coincidence, but it seems to have worked/at least helped this time, and for that, I’ve very grateful! J


This is a view of the wall surrounding my host family’s yard with the sunrise in the background. Sunrises while doing yoga is a definite “high” each morning J

Thursday, November 26, 2009

“I’m as African as African can be…”

Wednesday November 18th, 2009
“…and I’ve never seen a traditional dance like THAT!” Caroline (the PC Health Program Trainer here in Mozambique) explained to the group of PC health trainees as we discussed our observations regarding some sexual references during a local dance performance we had just witnessed. In fact, what had caught people off guard was not the repeated pelvis thrusts that occurred throughout the dance (typical in many traditional African dances), but rather the culmination of the song where the lead dancer put his hand down his pants and stuck his finger out of his undone zipper. Even though some of the moves were notably influenced by African culture, the show resembled a hiphop dance scene from the movie “Step Up” more than anything else. The performance by the group of young men, as Caroline pointed out to us, actually gave us a lot of insight into the generation of young Mozambicans that we will be working with who are currently experiencing a huge transition of cultural influence in their society.

Even though many European countries carved up and forced themselves upon most of Africa in the 1800’s and 1900’s, I believe that the western cultural influence which is now penetrating African society is arguably greater than ever before. While colonialism forced new languages and social structures on many African tribes, the local languages and customs persisted and were highly prevalent in everyday life. Now, on the other hand, although the current generation of Mozambican youth continues to get certain aspects of their culture from their Zulu and Shangana (here in Namaacha) heritage, there is a huge amount of influence from foreign sources that extends beyond the realms of government and economy to profoundly influence family life. This influence, in the case of my host family for example, most often comes in the subtle and seductive form of Brazilian and Portuguese television programming, American and European movies and music, and a general influx of ideas from organizations and individuals from all over the world who set up camp in foreign countries. Although one might argue that this influx of knowledge and culture greatly benefits the upcoming generation of Mozambicans, it has a detracting side to it as well. Of all the 6 children in my host family, for example, only one, my oldest brother Lissaio, can actually speak Shangana. To combat this trend the government has implemented programs to revitalize local culture by teaching native languages in schools, but these programs are few and far between.

On a personal note, after having been in Mozambique for a little less than 2 months, I’ve already started to question the presence and motives of international NGO’s and ex-pats (not excluding myself) who come to Africa to help build infrastructure and/or address public health problems, but who often bring with them their own agendas and end up causing a lot more problems than providing solutions. I am not saying that we should stop offering aid to people in developing countries, but instead I am trying to make it one of my foremost goals to not push my agenda when serving the people of my future community. We’ll see how well I hold true to that one…

Friday November 20th, 2009
I have a blog entry for this day that I'll be sending out to people on an individual basis because of its sensitive content. If you would like to see this entry, please email me at mtudeen@gmail.com and I'll try to email you the entry ASAP.

Saturday November 21st, 2009
It was only slightly drizzling (a significant improvement in recent weather patterns) as I stepped out of my house and started up the hill towards the city center of Namaacha. It had been raining the night before though, so the roads were pretty muddy and it was battle with every step I took, having to tug on my sandals just to get them back out of the matope (shangana for “mud”). I was running a little late and wasn’t sure where I was going exactly, but I knew that PC had scheduled a visit with a curandeiro (a traditional healer) somewhere in Namaacha so I was pretty ready and willing make the early morning trip, even in less than ideal conditions, to have the new experience.


A look at the mountains from Barrio 25 during a quick lull in the rains.

After the initial confusion, I found myself with my language group being led down a wet, rocky mountain side, whose dirt had been scrapped away by the wind and rain, towards the curandeiro’s house. Although the path looked especially daunting, the rocks were actually not very slippery, surprisingly easy to walk on, and sort of functioned like an paved, albeit uneven road for the barrio.

When we finally arrived at the house of the curandeiro, another PC language group had just started their visit so we had to stand outside the consultation room (a circular mud-block hut, about 10 feet in diameter, topped with thatch roofing and completely separate from his actual house) under a crammed covered patio and make small talk while waiting our turn. When the other group finished their visit after 30 minutes or so and we were finally able to enter the consultation room, the curandeiro asked us to take our shoes off before entering and then sit on the straw mat stretched out on the floor in front of him. The curandeiro was a middle-aged man, probably somewhere in his early 30s, whose dark black skin dramatically contrasted the white and red capulana that he wore around his waist. Luckily for us, he spoke Portuguese very slowly and clearly and I was able to understand most, if not all, of what he told us.

Our visit with the curandeiro started with him explaining to us the preparation that goes into a consultation and how a typical consultation happens. As we sat there star struck, he rapidly pointed out items hanging from the walls of the room that play important roles in the consultation: differently designed capulanas he wears in accordance to the type of consult, head dresses that that patient must wear, various jars of herbs and animal skin, etc. He then went on to tell us how, when a patient arrives for a consult, they are not supposed to tell the curandeiro what’s wrong. Instead, the curandeiro takes a small cup filled with coins, shells, and other materials, shakes them, and the releases them onto the floor to make a pattern. He didn’t explain exactly how he reads the patterns that they make, but apparently it tells him why the patient is visiting and they move on from there with the appropriate ritual or herbal remedy. On a normal day, he guesses that he’ll see anywhere between 10-15 patients. And to me that’s very interesting because here, in a relatively urban area (like Namaacha) where access to the hospital is relatively easy, the cost to find transportation to the hospital is minimal and the care at the hospital is, most of the time, free. On the other hand, a curandeiro always charges a fee. So even when almost everyone in the area is strapped for cash, you know that money isn’t the most important factor in many people’s health decisions.

According to the curandeiro we visited, between 60-70% of Mozambicans have visited/still visit a curandeiro for medical treatment. People seek out medical treatment from curandeiros for various reasons. Even though the public health care system here in Mozambique is free of cost, there are still plenty of barriers to entry and oftentimes a visit to the local curandeiro is the more practical option. For example, with over 20 million people in Mozambique and less than 900 doctors, compared to over 15,000 curandeiros, it is safe to say that there is a significant deficiency of health care professionals, resulting in very long wait times at the hospitals. Additionally, hospitals are only located in district and provincial capital cities, so if you need to receive treatment, you may need to travel very far just to wait in those long lines. Another important aspect of visiting curandeiros is the emphasis on spiritual and emotional healing which oftentimes the official medical system tends to put less emphasis on or ignore completely. Discussing it a little more, some PC friends and I have hypothesized that maybe paying something for health-care services gives the patient a sense of comfort in knowing that the service rendered is “valuable” and the patient literally and figuratively has bought into the treatment method.

The curandeiro we met with is the district secretary of AMETRAMO, Association of Traditional Healers of Mozambique, and thus he was very sensitive in the wording of his explanations regarding the struggle between traditional healing and western medicine. While sidestepping some of the more direct questions regarding this struggle, he portrayed the current health care situation as one with shared responsibilities between both entities. He recognized that some problems are indeed biologically based, but that curandeiros have many herbal solutions that they can use to treat them. He also conceded that there are some diseases are biologically based that curandeiros haven’t yet figured out how to treat them (ie HIV) and instead they refer these patients to the area hospital. However, he was insistent that many physical illnesses are actually rooted in emotional and spiritual issues that curandeiros can best treat through particular rituals.

One must take all of that with a grain of salt though, because a patient doesn’t typically walk into a curandeiro with a hospital diagnosis. In fact, as I mentioned earlier, the curandeiro usually won’t even permit the patient to tell him what’s wrong with him. Instead, the curandeiro relies on their collection of shells, coins, and other spiritual items to help determine what the patient’s illness is. In the end it’s tough to say if a curandeiro will always refer a patient with a biologically-based problem that they can’t treat to the hospital. An omnipresent force of conflict in western medicine is the influence of money. It’s no different in traditional healing. Curandeiros are not typically ultra-wealthy members of the community and thus they need to earn money just like everyone else. As one can easily infer from this situation, there is a significant incentive to holding on to patients instead of referring them to the hospital.

That all said, there is a saying back in the States among general practitioners that 70% of acute patients will get better without the intervention of the doctor. Yet, not only do we continue to still see all of these patients, but we even encourage most people to go to the doctor more often. This seemingly insinuates that the illnesses stopping are directly related to the doctor’s interventions, but this is not always the case. So I ask, in this instance, is western medicine and traditional medicine really that different? Just a thought…

Sunday November 22nd, 2009
Since arriving back from site visits over a week ago it has been overcast and rainy every day, minus a 3 or 4 hour interval one afternoon. It’s been so bad that I’ve actually been called out by my host family for acting sad or depressed. And you know what? They were right! I’m a Florida boy and I was pretty bummed out by the weather. To give you a better picture of how intense the rain has been, two days ago it was so bad that 3 houses in Namaacha actually caved in and were destroyed because the rain eroded the mud “mortar” that held the houses’ stone exterior together. (As a side note, it’s amazing that I didn’t even notice the collapsed houses until my brother pointed it out to me! I can be so absorbed in small things that I notice the huge ones.)

That all said, after a week of rain, I woke up this morning singing to myself, finally…. it’s gonna be a bright (a bright), a bright, a bright sun shinny day! I took the opportunity to wash and dry clothes (I had been getting a lot of jabs from my host family about having worn the same pair of pants for the past three days), get mud off shoes, and, most importantly, get out and have some fun!

Check out the photos below from my long anticipated hike to the waterfalls with my PC friends and our host families:


Walking in the shade to the waterfalls just outside of Namaacha.


A better look at the scenery while walking to the waterfalls.


Yokho, Roselia, and Noemi with our host brothers and sisters at the upper waterfalls.


Me joining in on the photo action in front of the upper falls.


Josh feeling me up from behind in front of the big waterfall.


Roselia and my brother, Ramadaan, chilling on a rock in front of the big fall.


Amanda's brother and my brother, Ramadaan, climbing a tree in front of the big fall.


Yokho, Noemi, Roselia, and Josh with our host family members enjoying the sunset as we walk back to Namaacha.

Wednesday November 25th, 2009
Happy Thanksgiving everyone! I miss you all! I’ll write more about my Thanksgiving experience and such later, but I just wanted to let you all know what my site placement is! **drum roll please** I will be spending the next two years in the rural town of Nauela in the northern part of the Zambezia province partnered with the international-NGO Friends in Global Health working with People Living With HIV/AIDS (PLWHA). My site is located in northern part Mozambique, close to the Mt. Namuli (the second highest mountain in the country, I think). Go check it out on google maps or something J! Now I know where I’m going and what in theory I’ll be doing, but once I get to sight we’ll see how everything pans out. Either way, I’m really excited!